Comments on: Mountain Bike Suspension Fork Installation Instructions

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Tue, 17 Feb 2009 17:45:47 +0000

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By: Tim F.

Tim F. — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:15:31 +0000

Just a note, I always have found it easier to flip the cutting guide around from the way you have it in the third picture to being supported on the inside of the cut. That way the whole guide doesn’t fall off when you finish cutting through the steerer tube, just the excess tubing.

By: 198

198 — Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:52:01 +0000

A dry fit is always a great idea.

By: Paulo

Paulo — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:09:08 +0000

Terrific article. I am printing it out and posting on my garage wall. It will come in handy when I start the spring overhaul process.

By: Ben

Ben — Mon, 16 Feb 2009 15:04:35 +0000

The ‘measure twice, cut once’ thing is very, very important! I once saw a pair of Judy DH forks (Back when they were the top fork in the market, so about 1993 or 1994) with a 10cm steerer. They belonged to a young bike mag journalist who had cut them to that length (without a guide, which left a nice spiral cut in the tube) because the steerer tube on his Turner was 10cm.

I *always* fit the crown race and dry assemble the whole thing – fork, headset, spacers and stem – before marking it and cutting it simply because it’s easy to get it wrong.

Having the whole thing assembled, checking it and then marking where to cut removes any doubt. Another way to do it is to check your measurement against the steerer tube on the old fork. And finally, if in doubt, give it an extra inch or so – you can always cut the steerer down a little more, but you can’t put it back together…