Finding the best discount bike parts and mountain bikes is going to become even more crucial as years roll on. It is painfully obvious that the prices of new mountain bike frames and components are not decreasing anytime soon (seems like the price of mountain bikes and components keep going up! Check out the new SRAM and Shimano components), so by keeping an eye out and looking in the right places, you can find the best mountain bike deals and find discount bike parts that will stretch your dollar a lot farther down the trail. Here are some of my best resources for finding discount bike parts.

What Should I Be Upgrading?

When I have some extra cash to spend on mountain bikes and components, I try to look at my budget and where that money will get the most return on the dollar. For many mountain bikers, they take that several hundred bucks or less and jump out to buy the top of the line X.0 or XTR rear derailleur (Related: Is X.0 or XTR Really Worth It?) and that…in my opinion…is the wrong move. In the mountain bike component market, unless you are a racer extremely worried about weight, components from the XT or X9 component group from Shimano and SRAM perform just as well as their flagship lines.

Also, your money might be better spent on wheels or suspension components where you will see a lot better improvement in your mountain bikes ride for the dollar. It is just something to think about as you look for discount bike parts or look to find the best mountain bike deal to replace your entire sled.

Where? Find Discount Bike Parts and Mountain Bike Deals

So now that you know which component, frame or complete bike you want, it is time to go out and find it for the lowest possible price you can.

eBay: New and Used Mountain Bike and Discount Bike Parts

eBay is the typical, “go-to” source to find new and used parts at a lower price. With thousands of mountain bike components, frames and complete bikes, eBay can be your #1 source for finding new and used discount bike parts, but you need to make sure you buy from a reputable seller.

• Only buy parts that have detailed description and pictures.
• Only buy from sellers with a good reputation.
• Always pay with PayPal to insure resolution if the part is not as advertised.
• If it is “too good to be true”, it normally is.

Find Discount Bikes and Parts On eBay

Forum Classifieds: Slightly Used Mountain Bikes and Components

Forum classifieds are a great way to find slightly used mountain bikes and parts. I have found some of my best mountain bike deals and discount bike parts on forum classifieds as many riders try something 3 times, throw it in their garage and then sell it when the latest and greatest hits the market. While there are huge, worldwide forums (like MTBR.com) that have the best selection, sometimes it is better to hit up your local forum so you can see the mountain or part before purchase.

Online Blowout Deals: New Bikes and Parts for the Price of Used

If you watch the trends, when mountain bike and component manufacturers release a new lineup, the online retailers need to blow out the old models to get rid of the inventory quickly. By watching out for these deals, you can get the best mountain bike deals you can find on complete bikes and frames. You can also find discount bike parts at a steal as it costs the retailer more money to keep old parts in stock than it does to sell them to you at near cost.

Just about every month, online retailers like JensonUSA, Huck N Roll and others will run a great sale on inventory they need to get rid of quickly.

Side Note: There is now a specific “deals” site for bikes at Chainlove where you can find some extremely good deals. Everything is one part at a time until it runs out, so you have to be on your toes and checking back regularly for discount bike parts and apparel.

Your Local Bike Shop: The Home Away From Home

The reality of local bike shop ownership is that it can be difficult to have discount bike parts, bikes and frames. Your best bike deals are not usually found at your LBS, but there are distinct advantages from buying from a LBS including service, atmosphere and supporting local businesses. Just like online retailers, local bike shops need to watch their inventory and make sure that bikes and components do not sit on the floor for too long.

If you already have a relationship with a local bike shop, sometimes the simple question, “hey…what do you guys really need to get rid of? I could use a new wheelset.” will get you a long way in finding discount bike parts locally. You might not get exactly the brand and model you want, but you will get the service and experience of a LBS to back it up.

Discount Bike Parts: The Search That Requires Patience

Discount bike parts are an easy thing to find if you do not have to have it today. With a little patience and the willingness to check out multiple sources online and off, you can get higher quality mountain bikes and components for a cheaper price. After all, don’t we all want to find the best mountain bike deals so we can continue to upgrade our rigs?

Results: The SRAM vs. Shimano Debate

It was a close race…a painfully close one. It actually got to the point that a reader emailed me saying the poll was broken…it must be giving a vote to both at the same time on every vote. Well…I assure you the poll ran correctly, it was just that close throughout the entire voting process. SRAM and Shimano were each on the top spot about a dozen times before this was all over.

Now…the poll is great but what is the interpretation of this test in preferences amongst mountain bikers on Bike198?

Bike198′s Impressions Of The Poll Results

1. Ask This Question 5 Years Ago – If you would have asked this question 5 years ago (or even just 3 years ago), I think the outcome would have been different. With increasing press around the XX system from SRAM and their ability to get spec’ed on more OEM rides, we are seeing more SRAM components on the trail every year. Shimano’s stronghold on the mountain biking world is starting to loosen as a real competitor is providing components at the level Shimano has for years. The dance has begun on the new 2×10 products and SRAM is poised to make it a full out war with their new products and branding strategy. It is going to be interesting to see how this one plays out.
2. It Is Always Going To Be Close – If you hold the quality of the products as a constant and look a the long run, this is going to be a close race for awhile now. There are those that will not run anything but Shimano, there are those that will not run anything but SRAM and then there is that last crowd that just rides anything that comes spec’ed on the bike. With the quality of our complaints in the component industry for mountain bikes (in other words…we don’t have much to complain about with these two), there is going to be a constant dance for the top spot.
3. We Are Stuck – We are looking at the two component manufacturers for mountain bikes for a long time. The amount of progression it has taken to get to this point and the high up-front cost it would take to even try to compete in this market is going to prevent anyone from entering in and shaking up the boat for awhile. Time to pick your camp…you are not going to have another option for quite sometime.
4. There Isn’t A Bad Option – We might shoot our mouths off at the trailhead about which set is the best, but in all reality…there is not a bad option in the mountain bike component industry right now. After putting in some serious time on Shimano’s SLX groupo, I can honestly say that everything right now is performing at a level that was unheard of several years ago. We are extremely spoiled from SLX and X7 to XX and XTR. It is a great time to be a mountain biker as technology and dependability are racing forward faster than we can keep up. Remember the days of STX-RC and old school grip shifters on Shimano derailleurs? Those days are gone and now we have real performance.
5. Shimano Should Be Scared – This poll in the mountain biking world is a sign of the times for the road biking community. As SRAM continues to pick up momentum in the skinny tire’d side of things, they are going to eventually end up with the same poll results. That means that Shimano has to lose market share for that to happen.

There are our thoughts on the SRAM vs. Shimano debate. Congratulations goes out to SRAM for pulling out the win in this tight race for component supremacy.

What do you guys think about the results?

The Ardent 2.4 is Maxxis’ answer to those riders looking to get more out of their rubber, so let’s take a look at this tire and see how it did on the trail.

Maxxis Ardent 2.4 26″ Mountain Bike Tire Specs

Before we bury this thing into rocks and roots, let’s take a look at the pure numbers. Now, keep in mind that these measurements will vary depending upon application as the widths are dependent upon your rim width and tire pressure. The specs were obtained at 25 psi on a Specialized Roval Traverse AL rim which is spec’ed at a 20.8mm inside width. Wider rims and higher psi will widen the width specs while narrower rims and lower pressures can narrow the specs.

• Test 2.4 Weight: 820g (claimed 815g)
• Casing Width: 2.23″
• Outside Tread Width: 2.335″
• Est. Tire Height Off Rim: 2.3″
• Rubber: 60 TPI/60 Durometer
• MSRP: $48.00

The Maxxis Ardent 2.4 tire features a pronounced ramped center knob pairing followed by a squared off, smaller secondary tread pairing. The transition section has one smaller tread after each center section that goes into a pronounced H knob and then a two staged, stacked side tread.

From Maxxis.com:

An aggressive tread in high-volume casings distinguishes the newest addition to Maxxis’ downhill and mountain disciplines. Designed with great traction in mind, the Ardent doesn’t forget the racer. Large block-style side knobs offer numerous edges for high-speed corners. Center tread, while designed for braking and accelerating traction, also features ramped knobs to minimize rolling resistance. With a wide variety of size offerings, the Ardent captures every mountain rider’s needs.

• Designed for traction
• Low rolling resistance
• Lightweight, high-volume, single-ply casing

Review: Maxxis Ardent 26×2.4 Mountain Bike Tire

Ok…so let’s get at it and get these monsters from Maxxis dirty…

First Looks and Mounting

We ended up throwing the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 26″ tires on a series of 5.5″ and 6.4″ travel bikes to get an idea of how it would perform on the vast majority of the mountain bikes on the market today. Having previously reviewed the 29×2.25 and the 2.6×26 DH casing versions of this tire, we had high hopes for this “do-it-all” 2.4 tire out of Maxxis.

At first glance, the Ardent looks big. Despite what the numbers look like above, the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 has a large stance on your rim and a ton of volume for the size. Given that the measurements were taken at 25psi, the Ardent comes dangerously close to the claimed 2.4 width. For those of you that are familiar with other tires in this category from Maxxis, the close to claim width is a welcomed change. The Ardents mounted up easily to the Specialized rims as well as the DT Swiss 5.1 and Stans Flow rims they were mounted to on other rides.

The green hot patch on the Ardent really isn’t my style, but that is purely personal preference so I’ll let you make your own judgments there. I really wish they would have gone with something a little bit more neutral and not quite as loud to look better on different styled bikes.

On The Trail With The Maxxis Ardent 2.4

An 820g 2.4 mountain bike tire is designed to take on all aspects of the mountain on your mid travel mountain bike. So how did it do on the trail given the wide range of applications this tire is designed around?

Just Rolling Along

The first thing you notice when you get the Maxxis Ardent 2.4 rolling is how easily you can get this tire moving. Compared with other 2.4′s on the market, the Ardent has really low rolling resistance. The rounded profile matched with the ramped center knobs make this tire a great option for all day hammers in the woods. When you are just pedaling along, you don’t feel like you are having to push the tire forward…it just rolls. For those of you that are not used to larger size tires, you will have to get used to the 820g weight, but at least you will not feel like you are pedaling in sand.

Climbing On The Ardent

Overall climbing traction in the rear is pretty good thanks to the really high volume of these tires. When things get loose and sandy, you might get some slippage due to the ramped knobs, but in most slow climbing situations…correct tire pressure matched with the volume tends to wrap around objects in the trail providing you with adequate traction. Again, the ramped knobs allow the tire to get up and moving quickly, so outside of the weight, the tread pattern makes for a great rear roller.

Gravity Assisted Riding On The Ardent

When things get pointed down, the 2.4 Ardent from Maxxis really comes alive. This high volume tire loves to be pushed hard into corners and the 60 TPI casing does a great job of keeping the tire’s profile together under hard hits and preventing pinch flats at lower pressures. I started running these tires at about 28 psi (roughly 190 lbs riding weight) and found myself continuing to lower the pressure on the trail. The Ardents really love for you to run as low as pressures as possible as the grip continues to increase as you do.

The 60 durometer rubber does a great job of grabbing rocks and roots as you continue to push the limits. The H knob and stacked, two stage side knob hold corners very well in rough situations at the threshold. I could really trust the front when plowing into rooty corners or coming off of midsized drops. When the trail gets on the sandy side of things, the tire can tend to get a little bit loose as the low transition knob and ramped center knobs want to skate over the loose instead of dig into it.

Under braking, the Ardents did a good job of hooking up and slowing things down in hardpack and technical trail. Again, on the looser trail conditions, there was more tire lockup and sliding, but I have not been able to find a tire that does well in those trail conditions. Loose braking is just one of those situations where you really have to have some brake control outside of relying on the tires to do all of the work.

Overall: Maxxis Ardents 2.4×26 Mountain Bike Tire

The Maxxis Ardent 26×2.4 is a perfect tire for riders who want to get more technical in their riding (or already are) but still want a faster rolling tread for full days in the saddle. During our testing, we found that matching the 2.4 Ardent with a smaller, lighter rear tire was the ideal setup. In one case, we actually used a 2.25 version of the tire in the rear mated with this in the front. The Ardent 2.4 has enough volume, durability and grip for the hardcore tech junkies, but you will notice that it does not perform as well as some of the heavier, non-ramped tread patterns in loose trail conditions. Basically, what you gain in rolling resistance performance you give up in loose grip performance. That is a pretty normal situation in tread designs.

While the low transition knob looks like it doesn’t do too much for riders that like to spend a lot of riding time on that section of the tire, combined with the multi-stage side and H knobs, the Ardent does a great job at gripping in between the center and edge of the tire.

Positives: Maxxis Ardent 2.4×26

• Low rolling resistance.
• Respectable weight for a 2.4.
• Close to claimed weight and width measurements.
• Crazy grip in technical and hard pack trail conditions.

Negatives: Maxxis Ardent 2.4×26

• Green hot patch may not match your rig.
• Some sliding in loose trail conditions.

If you are looking to get into the higher volume, more grip side of things on your 5.5″ and up mountain bike, the Maxxis Ardent is the first one I would send you to as a front tire. With the high weight and high width, riders used to the lighter side of mountain bike tread may have a hard time running it as a rear, so throw one up front and start burring it into everything you can find. Just remember to run the pressures low and trust that it is going to stick.

Where To Buy Your Own Maxxis Ardent

MAXXIS ARDENT STEEL BEAD TIRE

MAXXIS ARDENT FOLDING TIRES1

My Advice On Buying New Mountain Bike Gear

This is pretty much what I stick to when I am dropping my personal funds on a mountain bike frame or part. Hopefully this can help clear the noise and get you started.

Parts Last Longer Than Frames

Once you jump into the frame only market, you are going to start to swap out frames more than you do parts. Even in complete bike purchases, you will transfer your better components over to the new build leaving the lower grade parts as backups or to install on the old bike for resale. As you look at bikes to buy or parts to upgrade, keep in mind that you are going to keep those higher end parts for a longer period of time, so that investment is going to bring you more return on your money. I have a Chris King headset that has moved through 7 different bikes. Several of my wheelsets have been on 3 bikes or more.

Swapping out frames on a regular basis is also more common as your riding style changes so your mountain bike frame needs change as well. No matter what bike you are riding, the components will stay virtually the same (things like suspension fork may change due to frame specifications).

Spend The Money Where It Matters

I know that carbon cage looks cool as hell on your rig, but for a 1/3 of the price…you can step down to XT or X.9 and get the same performance. You will not be shaving precious grams or have the bling to show off at the trailhead, but you will be able to save that money and spend it on more component parts that will actually affect how your bike performs on the trail. I can’t tell you how many mountain bikes I have seen with $250.00 rear derailleurs and $100.00 wheelsets. It just doesn’t make sense.

I tend to make the biggest investments on wheels and suspension forks. The rest of my builds get the run of the mill XT or X.9 components.

Your Friend Is Wrong

9 times out of 10, your buddy that is telling you to buy his bike because it is the best thing he has ever thrown a leg over is wrong. No one can tell you what the best mountain bike is for you. If his bike was the best thing since sliced bread and everyone should have one…then there would only be that model of mountain bike on the market. All of our body types, riding styles and trail needs are different. Do not let someone talk you into buying something without riding it first to see if it is exactly what you need. It is not their cash they are shelling out…it is yours.

Ideally, you want to test ride as many bikes as you possibly can to find out what works best in your situation. Read reviews, try it out…talk to as many mountain bikers as you can and then formulate your own decisions based on fact. Try not to let this become an emotional, off the cuff buy.

Think About The Resale

Boutique bikes are easier to sell as frame only and big box bikes (Trek, Specialized, Gary Fisher, etc.) are easier to resell as complete bikes. It is pretty hard to unload a big box bike as frame only and get any resemblance of a quality resell price out of it. This is something to keep in mind as you look at purchasing complete mountain bikes or just a mountain bike frame. If you are selling a Trek or Specialized mountain bike, it does not have to have all of the original components on it, but it is going to resell much easier as a complete build as that target buyer is in the market for a complete mountain bike.

Better Deals Are Found In The Off-Season

You are going to find better prices and deals in the off-season as you have more buying power because retail is slow. The same goes for picking up used parts and mountain bikes. If you are looking to save some money or you are on a tight budget, waiting until the colder months may be a great option. There will be less to choose from in the used market, but the prices are generally lower.

First off, I completely agree with a 2x setup on the front. I have been running this setup on my 9 speed stuff for a long time with the aid of a bashguard. There are a lot of benefits to running this setup when you go with a slightly larger middle ring unless you are riding a lot of forest service road where you need the big ring to keep momentum. So…simpler is better up front and I am completely on board. Bring on the two rings up front for production component groups…I am ready for it!

My Thoughts On 10 Speed Mountain Bike Drivetrains

Well…we are introducing another standard in mountain biking. With the industry moving towards the tapered headtube, we are now tackling the idea of all of our high end component groups making the switch to 2×10. My issues with the move are really several fold, but here are the highlights.

10 Speed Mean Tighter Tolerances

We are asking for adjustment issues on the trail with tighter tolerances between gears. Some would argue that 9 speed is actually too many, so why the move to 10? With tighter spacing between gears (remember, frame widths and cassette bodies didn’t change), any bump on the rear derailleur or gunk in the shifting cable can have more of a dramatic affect on your shifting performance on the trail. This is not a road bike. We are going to hit things along the way and we are going to run into dirty as hell trail conditions. It is just part of mountain biking.

With many riders still fiddling with 9 speed drivetrains, I believe that making the jump to 10 is asking a little bit much of the average rider. Do I think it will shift like a dream and perfect every time when setup correctly? Sure! Every drivetrain setup on a mountain bike works great on the stand and with the absence of debris and cable stretch. How is it going to do after I throw it into a tree or two in not so satisfactory conditions?

Price Is Through The Roof

The X.0 10 speed cassette is over 200 dollars and that is a wear item! All of these components from the chainrings to the chain and finally the cassette are all wear items that we are used to replacing for a reasonable cost over time.

With the introduction of the 10 speed drivetrain, we also see a drastic increase in price on parts that we are going to have to eventually replace. I don’t know about you…but I do not want to drop over 200 dollars to replace a cassette. That seems a little extreme…even for top of the line mountain bike components.

Once Again…Not Backwards Compatible

The industry is introducing more parts that are not compatible with each other. While we are pretty used to brands not being compatible (SRAM’s 1:1 vs. Shimano’s 2:1), now we have a whole host of new components that are not compatible with our current systems. Hopefully, both SRAM and Shimano will release 9 speed versions of their new components so you can go purchase a new x.0 derailleur if you want to without having to replace everything you own.

I am all for progression in the sport. I am even a parts whore who will justify even the smallest purchase because I just hope and pray for the UPS guy to show up early to my house. I am just starting to get confused on the thought process of going with 10 speed drivetrains on mountain bikes. Of course, we could probably rewind time and listen to everyone say the same thing about the switch to 9 speed. I might be eating my words several years down the road, but there are going to be growing pains in the process.

What do you think of the new 10 speed drivetrains for mountain bikes?

If you are lucky and over 25, you probably even have a couple of bikes in your garage.  Maybe you got started on something you could afford a few years ago, and then got hooked.  You then actually got a job that paid a few bucks and upgraded to a new ride to satiate the need to maneuver through the network of trails at your disposal in the most efficient way possible. But you never got rid of that first steed, did you?  It is hard to part with your first lover, even thought you are in to someone hotter.  And fortunately in the world of mountain biking, you don’t have to.  You can keep the old girl around even though you found something faster or plusher.  Or maybe, like Robb, you found that you just can’t commit.  You need multiple mistresses to satisfy your compulsive pedaling.  You took up road biking.  You started cross racing.

Maybe this is just an indication of my perpetual state of adolescence, but at age 41, I found myself bumping up against Boulder’s unwritten law:  That to stay married, you are limited to a 5:1 bike to spouse ratio.  For some reason, I find it very difficult to part with old bikes.  My father once asked “Why own more than one bike if I could only ride one bike at a time?”  Then I asked him, “How many golf clubs do you carry in your bag?”   You see, different bikes have different uses.

But there is a problem  at the core of a bicycle’s more elementary parts.  The pedals. Once upon a time, this was a non issue.  But with the evolution of something as simple as a bicycle has come the development of a complex problem.  We no longer throw on our Keds and go for a ride.  We had to complicate it.  First it was toe clips.  Then someone came up with PowerGrips (kind of the 8-track tape of pedal devices).  Then we went clipless.  It started on road bikes.  Then it migrated to mountain bikes.  Before long, people had road bike pedals and road bike pedals.  Each had their own kind of shoe.

The BMX riders, downhillers, and trials guys were pretty smart.  They skipped the whole dilemma and rode the same set of Shimano DX pedals for 30 years with skateboard shoes.  Brilliant.

But no one ever accused me of being too smart.  I like road biking.  I love mountain biking.  And then things got kind of weird and I got into cross a little.  No, not that — cyclocross!  So anyway, I was a little irritated these bikes all came with a different pedal or no pedals at all.  Now every time my life has felt overly burdensome, I have always found success in one word.

SIMPLIFY

Ride one kind of pedal across whatever genre of bike I had most recently fallen in love with.  This meant sacrificing a few well marketed benefits of specialization as there is no one pedal system that is going to be perfect in every situation.  I needed a cross trainer.  You know – that shoe they invented in the ‘80s that does everything pretty well, but is probably not the best at doing any one thing.  Add in that different pedals are not just genre specific, but condition specific.

It takes about 1.3 seconds to eliminate any road biking pedal.  Honestly, why are these even sold to the general public?  Don’t tell me they are stiff.  Unless you are riding in the Tour De Wherever, no one should own a set of road pedals with accompanying impractical shoes.  The soles have little to no grip.  They are made of carbon fiber ice.  They remind me of those shoes people buy to learn how to jump higher — great for George Costanza, but not for mere mortals.  Improperly mounted, these systems will turn your knees 80 years old in a matter of weeks.  You can only engage the cleat on one side of the pedal, which is always facing 180 degrees form where your cleat is.  This is the kind of crap that makes people hate roadies.

That gets you to some kind of mountain biking pedal system.  And this is where being my being a geezer helps you.  You see, there are a lot of systems out there.  You have your classic Shimano.  You have your old school Ritchey.  Hell, I even rode on some pedals called Onzas (Note from 198: these were my first set of clipless back in the day! You actually change bumpers to change tension.).  They used an elastomer sprung retention system.  Just a word to the wise here, never buy anything that has elastomer in it for riding.  It is all crap that will break down in a single season.  And it has been proven by countless products in a bin of crap in my garage.  If anyone is looking for a Manitou III or Girvin shock, please call me.  The point is, I have bought and trashed them all.

Here is what I learned:

• Never get a pedal that requires grease or another form of lube in the retention mechanism.  These pedals are a mess.  They are terrible in wet conditions.  They are worse in dry conditions.  This pretty much eliminates Shimano and Ritchey systems.  They were cool in their day.  They are not now.
• Never buy a pedal that has a dainty spring mechanism or where the tension mechanism is in the shoe instead of the pedal.   This may be fine on the road, but these systems break down quickly in cross and die on the trails.  This is because you will encounter some walking or running in these endeavors and the rocks and grit eat away at the mechanism under the weight of your body.  This eliminates Speedplays.

After you sort through what you don’t want, you get down to what you do want.  To operate across multiple riding conditions and styles, you need:

• A simple mechanism with very few moving parts
• Plenty of lateral play
• Something that is sturdy
• Two-sided entry
• Sheds mud
• Reasonable weigh
• Preferably a system that has multiple options such as a platform option as well as something sleek but will use the same cleat regardless of which version you are using on different bikes
• Has reasonable price points available

This really gets you down to two pedal systems.  Both are great options and may be a bit gender specific.  They are Time ATAC Pedals and Crank Brothers Pedals.

Personally, I am a Time ATAC guy.

The Time ATAC Pedals:

• Have a very simple retention mechanism.
• Come in a variety of different versions, all which use the same cleat.
• Are generally a little pricier, but they last forever.
• Come in a variety of options.  At the lower price point, you get an aluminum body with a cromoly spindle.  At the top end of their line, you get a lighter weight but more expensive carbon fiber version with a ti spindle.
• Have great clearance.
• Shed mud better than any pedal out there and are indifferent to heavy dust.
• No lube required.
• Positive engagement and disengagement and are very smooth at both.
• Time is great about keeping the cleat the same from year to year so you do not have to worry about them muddling your system.

I have used these for years and have never had one break down.  I use them on my mountain bike, my cross bike, and my road bike.  They have great clearance for road biking and allow me to use a stiff-soled mountain bike shoe that works well whether I want to use them on the trail or while cornering on sweltering pavement.

There is one caveat – these pedals tend to work better for riders weighing 160 lbs. or more.  While the engagement is crisp, lighter riders sometimes have trouble creating the torque to exit quickly.

The second recommended pedal system is from Crank Brothers.  Crank Brothers pedals share most of the qualities listed above for the Time ATAC, but they do have some advantages to the Time ATAC:

• Anyone can get in and out of these pedals, male or female.  They disengage a little easier than the Times.
• Price.  I do not know what it is with these pedals, but you can always get them for less than retail.  I have seen them sold online at prices as low as $30 per pair for their base level Candy model (Acid Model Pictured).
• They have a broader array of styles.  They make a low end Candy with a 2-sided entry or a full ti race model in their Eggbeater model with 4-sided entry.  They even have a Mallet model that you can use for DH.  In addition, they have a road version if you want something with a sleek platform with very good clearance.
• The downside to the Crank Brothers pedals is durability.  This is just my experience, but their road pedals tend to lose aesthetic pieces over time.  They still function, but they tend to lose the metal side plates by the end of the season.

Hopefully these suggested models get you to a place where you can simplify your riding life without running up too much of a bill.  At a minimum, it gets you down to one pair of shoes.  I have found a good Sidi mountain bike shoe will work across the board as well, but that is another tech review.

Find the best prices on each brand by clicking here: Time ATAC Pedals | Crank Brothers Pedals

More on the reviewer – Eric Pringle:

In his day job, Eric runs Integrated People Solutions, a full service executive search and HR Consulting firm.  But after work and on the weekends, he likes to pack in as many miles as he can on the trails of Colorado and Utah.  His passion for bikes goes way back to getting hooked on BMX racing as a kid in Michigan.  Later, he got into road biking and doing a few road crits.  In 1987, he bought his first mountain bike and has been hooked ever since.  He has spent extensive time mountain biking in Colorado, Utah, California and even a little up in British Columbia.  Older and slower, he has turned his focus towards pleasure riding and a few marathon events.  He just finished is 11th Leadville 100 in as many attempts.  He also enjoys a lot of road biking and a little bit of cyclocross.  Always a tinkerer in his garage, he has tried a lot of bikes and countless parts looking for that perfect combination of strength, quality, weight, and value.  All of this in the hopes of finding that perfect ride where it all comes together hassle free and fast with a few bucks leftover for a beer and a burrito.  One step forward, one step back.

Riding Image by Alice Teoh

It’s The Rider…Not The Equipment

The latest and greatest in mountain bikes, components and gear have shortened the learning curve for many new riders, but when it boils down to it – it is the rider not the equipment that makes skilled riders as good as they are. I have made the joke about a thousand times – no…not Hasselhoff in the sand…I bet any pro could show us up on a Huffy on this trail. The joke is not really a joke. They really could blow the doors off of most riders with a 150 dollar Wal-Mart special because they have the skills.

I am sure you see this scene all the time. A new rider makes it to your local trailhead with a shinny new rig. He went to your LBS – which loves guys like these – and bought the best of the best of everything in search of sweet singletrack riding. So there he is…carrying around about 8 grand worth of shit that he thinks is going to make him as good as the other riders that actually know what they are doing through experience. So…with he shinny new clipless shoes and $6,000+ Giant, Trek or Cannondale…he hits the trail for 1.5 miles and comes straight back to the parking lot complaining about the rocks in the trail and how they should take those out. I guess his fancy 5.5″ travel bike just couldn’t handle them. He then proceeds to go home, rack the bike on the wall, let it collect dust for 6-8 months as we vows to take it out again and eventually sells it to another rider for an incredible deal.

This guy’s fatal flaw – among many – is that he assumed that the best mountain biking components is what made these riders look so good, so if he got even better components…he was going to be able to blast by them on the trail with all of his high dollar bling.

Let me paint another picture. You are at a local group road ride for the first time. You are an ok rider that likes to hang with the A’s but is probably more of a B rider. As you size up the crowd to see who can really drop you off the back of the pack, you probably see several different kinds of riders. However, there are two kinds that will always catch your eye. The first is a roadie without a budget. He has the the best of the best that he claims has made him faster than you could ever imagine. The only reason he is not going to lead the ride out today is because he has the bird flu, but this new import with electronic shifting is bad ass and you just wish you had one.

The second is a roadie that you do not want to even try to keep up with. He is on an old bike. He is quiet. He has been riding for longer than you have been alive and he is about to show the world how a 20 year old road bike will smoke a $8k carbon dream. For most experienced roadies, they know that guy is about to flat out leave everyone with room in the tank for more. He isn’t talk or fancy components…he just rides the wheels off of anything he is on.

Does this mean you can’t have new stuff and be fast? Of course not. I know some riders that have the best and can absolutely floor it, but we need to call it what it really is…a want – not a need. We like the latest and greatest that the cycling industry has to offer. We like to drool over carbon and big long travel monsters. While some equipment – like bigger forks – will make things easier and cover up some mistakes as your fine tune your skills, it will always be the rider – not the equipment – that gets you over that next technical trail feature or obstacle. If you think that new $1,000+ fork is going to do it or the new $250 rear derailleur…you are going to be sadly mistaken.

Ripped from RideSaint.com:

Shimano combines design and engineering prowess with current riding trends in all-mountain, freeride and downhill mountain bikes, in the lighter and incredibly durable Saint component group.

The redesigned group follows the evolution of aggressive mountain biking, where riders are more focused on finding their flow on lighter more precise handling bikes.

This review of the 2009 Shimano Saint component group covers everything except the hub set and front derailleur as it was not included on the Trek Session 88 FR review bike.

Shimano Saint Crankset

Model Number: FC-M810-1
Series: SAINT
Crank Construction: HOLLOWTECH II
Cassette Compatibility: 9-speed
Chain Compatibility: Super Narrow HG for 9-speed
4-Arm Chainrings: yes
Chainring Sizes: 34/36/38/40/42T
Bolt Circle Diameter: 104mm
Crank Arm Length: 165/170/175mm
Crank Arms: forged aluminum / hollow type
Middle Chainring: aluminum
Chainring Bolts & Nuts: aluminum (bolt), steel (nut)
Chain Guard: Bash Guard
Chaincase Compatible: no
Bottom Bracket: SM-BB80 included
Chain Line: 50.4mm
BB Shell Width: 68/73mm
Average Weight: 1059g including BB (36T) (170mm)

The Shimano Saint crankset was vastly improved over previous models. With a weight savings and claimed stiffness increase of 200%, the Shimano Saint crankset feels great on the trail. Ideally, I do not want to even notice that my crankset is there while riding. The more I do not feel flex, hear creaking or have any other issues…the better, and the Shimano Saint crankset performed incredibly well at speed and under big hits.

I was stoked that Shimano kept their “older style” XT mounting system for the Saint cranks. As you can see by the picture of the left crank arm in the gallery below, they kept the 2 bolt with finger tight outer nut as the mechanism in which the cranks bolt to the bottom bracket. This system is easy to install and trouble free, unlike the new system developed for XTR. The longer they keep this mounting…the better.

The updated graphics and overall look of the Saint crankset is a welcomed change. They are probably the sexiest set of cranks that I have run in awhile and luckily all of those looks do not sacrifice performance. Overall, Shimano hit a home run with the new Saint crankset. They performed on the trail and are lighter and look better for 2009.

Shimano Saint Shifter and Rear Derailleur

Model Number: SL-M810
Series: SAINT
Shift Lever Type: Rapidfire Plus
Cassette Compatibility: 9-speed
Front Shifting: yes
Instant Release: yes
Multi Release: no
2-way Release: yes
Optical Gear Display: no
Shift Cable Casing: SP41 sealed
Shift Cable: stainless steel
Average Weight: 121g (right) / 116g (left)

Model Number: RD-M810-GS
Series: SAINT
Shifting Action: SHADOW Top Normal
Mount Type: Drop-out
Maximum Sprocket: 28/34T
Minimum Sprocket: 11T
Front Difference: 14T
Total Capacity: 31/37T
Guide Pulley: sealed ceramic bushing
Tension Pulley: sealed bearing
Pulley Bolts: stainless steel
Pulley Bolts Retainer: yes
Bracket Body: aluminum/painted

Shifting on big hit and downhill bikes is one of those necessary evils. In most cases, I really only need a couple of different options based on the terrain and feature, so I want the shifting to be crisp and trouble free. On top of that, it needs to stay that way during suspension action and crash situations. Shimano incorporated their new Shadow design on the rear derailleur and this keeps the RD tucked in and away from rocks, trees, sticks and anything else that is ready to rip off your rear derailleur and ruin your day. This short cage rear derailleur out of the Saint lineup shifted smoothly and was there when you needed it. I only had to make several little adjustments to accommodate chain stretch throughout the review period, so I can say I had a trouble free experience. Even a couple of large hits against the ground and rocks didn’t knock the derailleur out of alignment.

The Saint derailleur matched with the new Saint rear shifter created a light shifting feeling that was trouble free. The front paddle on the Shimano Saint shifter can actuate in both directions (push or pull) to move the chain down the cassette. While this is an attempt to accommodate multiple shifting techniques, the overall design of the shifter is really more comfortable in the traditional Shimano push/pull. When you shift down the cassette by pushing the rear paddle (like you would with a SRAM system), it just feels awkward, but the index pulling feels great. It is almost like they just made the shifter actuate both ways to try to pull over some riders that are used to the SRAM style shifting. The shifting paddles were about the right length. A little bit shorter than their XT and XTR sisters, I was able to get them out of the way of my hands, but have them close enough for emergency shifting.

The barrel adjuster on the Saint shifter is larger and easier to grip than Shimano shifters I have used in the past. This made minor adjustments while riding much easier in full finger gloves. Overall, the Shimano Saint shifting is pretty much dead on. It is durable enough to withstand the abuse of hard riding and crisp enough not to annoy you when you are trying to find that extra second of speed.

Shimano Saint Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Model Number: BL-M810
Series: SAINT
Brake Compatibility: Hydraulic Disc Brake
Hydraulic Fluid: Shimano mineral oil
Brake Hose Type: SM-BH80-SB
Brake Lever Size: 1.5-finger
Brake Lever Material: aluminum
Brake Lever Finish: anodized
Bracket Material: aluminum
Bracket Finish: painted
SERVO WAVE Action Power Adjuster: yes
Reach Adjuster: tool-free reach adjustment
Average Weight: 266g (pair)

Model Number: BR-M810
Series: SAINT
Brake Type: Hydraulic Disc Brake
Compatible Brake Lever: BL-M810
Brake Pad Types: D02S Metallic
Hydraulic Fluid: Shimano mineral oil
Brake Hose Type: SM-BH80-SB
Caliper Mount Type: IS Post-type
Caliper Material: aluminum
Caliper Finish: painted
Piston Type: Opposed 4-piston
Average Weight: 162g

For 2009, Shimano claims to have brought the weight down, increased modulation and increased power for the 203mm Saint hydraulic brakes. While they are lighter and more powerful, the modulation on these huge stoppers is terrible. I was having difficulty controlling them on the trail with a distinct on/off feeling. As you move through the lever’s stroke, you get nothing…nothing…ON! The ON is full lockup as you try to control the front end from sliding out. All of that power is great out of a dh/fr marketed brake, but if it is not controlled…it is dangerous and a huge annoyance on the trail. I found that these brakes really got in the way on loose sections and slow tech obstacles. Feathering the brakes just wasn’t an option for slow speed maneuvers.

I tried everything to try to get these brakes to modulate better but the free stroke adjustment felt like it did nothing. I even had a couple other riders throw a leg over the bike just to make sure that I wasn’t insane, and every one of them almost went over the bars because of how grabby these brakes are. Compared to my Hope V2 Moto’s, these brakes have a long way to go in the modulation department, and modulation on hydraulic braking systems is where all of your control comes from.

To make matters worse, I could not get the front brake to shut up. It would howl loudly under braking and while it was making noise…braking was even more inconsistent. After numerous adjusting attempts and checking rotor alignment…I still couldn’t get it to stop.

The levers, on the other hand, felt great if you could ignore the lockup. The reach adjustment is extremely easy to use and the lever allows for true one finger braking. I would like to see Shimano adapt a 2 bolt mounting system over the current 1 bolt they are using now. 2 bolt mounted systems are easier to work with for maintenance and parts swapping.

Overall Thoughts On The New Shimano Saint Group

Shimano has come a long way with their downhill/freeride component group. The shifting is much better, the cranks are lighter and stiffer and the entire group looks much better on the bike than in the past. The decision to skinny down the fr/dh offerings from two (Hone and Saint) to just the Saint group was a smart move on Shimano’s part as they are able to focus on one group that will really perform. I was incredibly happy with everything in the Saint group except for the brakes. At race pace, it was difficult to keep the brakes under control and that is one thing that I am really anal about. I have to have great modulating brakes to easily control the bike.

Good Shimano Saint

• Durable Components
• Crisp Shifting
• Great looks
• XT style mounting on Saint crankset
• Lighter and stiffer for 2009

Bad Shimano Saint

• Zero modulation on brakes – They need some work
• Expensive for a group that is going to take a serious beating
• Front paddle shifter awkward in push motion

For the best prices on Shimano Saint components…check out JensonUSA.com

It’s official. SRAM launched their new 2×10 mountain bike component group named SRAM XX. This 10 speed mountain bike group is targeted towards the racing elite as they continue the quest for that top podium spot. With the release of this compoent group from SRAM, the question remains…

Is there room in the mountain biking industry for a 10 speed setup?

We have already seen a move to 10 speed in the road biking world. Some would argue that 10 speed component groups, even in road biking, is un-needed. How many gears do you actually need? When you introduce an additional gear on the cassette of a bike, you have to space the cogs closer together and use a thinner chain to fit everything in a tight space. The nay-sayers are going to tell you that this creates an unsavory situation that will cause more mis-shifts and component issues as there is less room for mud and road dirt and less give room for adjustment issues.

SRAM XX 10 Speed Component Group

Besides the fact that SRAM XX is a 2×10 setup, it does introduce some advancements in mountain biking technology that are worth taking a look over.

Significant Weight Savings

Since this specific component group is aimed at hardcore xc racers, it has to be as light as possible. SRAM significantly lighten the entire group by using several different materials…titanium, magnesium, carbon, etc. If these components still carry the same SRAM durability, that would make for a huge advancement in weight saving technology.

Hydraulic Fork Lockout

The new SRAM XX forks (SID, Reba and Revelation) use a new hydraulically driven fork lockout mechanism called Xloc. The Xloc is 60 grams lighter than the Pushloc/Blackbox lockout control and is completely sealed (for obvious reasons). A simple push on/push off function controls all of your compression lockout functions.

Exact Actuation Trigger Shifters and Derailleurs

From sram.com

Precision equals consistency equals victory. XX uses the Exact Actuation shifting technology developed for SRAM road to help give you the ultimate MTB shifting experience. Exact Actuation delivers an identical 3mm adjustment between each gear on the cassette, replacing the typical slop found between gears with a crisp, clean, and immediate shift. This consistent, precise adjustment means smoother, faster, and better shifting with no variation in pull effort from gear to gear.

Press Fit Bottom Bracket

Again…from sram.com

All new Truvativ PressFit 30 debuts with XX. The XX philosophy comes to life again— everything you need, nothing you don’t. Light and strong. Our all-new PressFit 30 provides big weight savings,a narrower Q factor, and more ankle clearance in an easy-to-install, durable little black package. PressFit 30 features an integrated gutter seal underneath an aluminum-bearing shield to dramatically prolong ceramic bearing life.

Thoughts from 198 on SRAM XX 10 Speed Component Group

So what do I think about the new SRAM XX component group? It’s cool to look at. Much like the new Shimano Dura Ace Di2 electronic shifting, this is one of those component groups that is aimed at a very specific kind of rider…a pure xc racer or a rider with too much money on their hands that has to have the latest and greatest.

The SRAM XX is a proprietary system that brings 10 speed components to the mountain biking industry for the first time ever. While I like to see innovation and technological progress, I am not sure that the mountain biking industry really needs a 10 speed component set. I do agree that SRAM’s sponsored riders and other team riders will see a real advantage to this setup, but I do not think that the average Joe mountain biker would notice any difference. Don’t get me wrong…you are going to see one of these groups at your local trailhead with some weekend warrior trying to convince you to skip your mortgage payment to pick one up, but the reality is that this group is a purpose built package.

Would I ride a bike that has this group installed? Of course! I actually run 2×9 setups on all of my personal rigs (minus the ss). Would I buy this component group for one of my bikes? Probably not. I need to have components that I can swap out between bikes and proprietary systems like the SRAM XX do not fit my needs, but…remember…they are not marketing this system to me anyway. I am not a sponsored xc racer.

I might be eating my words in the future (it has been known to happen), but I do not thing that 10 speed component groups are going to take over the mountain biking industry like they have in the road world. I do not think there is enough of an advantage to warrant changing over everything to a new format. Of course…many riders…just like myself…probably said the same thing about the switch from 8 speed to 9 speed…

These pictures and more information on SRAM XX can be found at sram.com/xx

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SRAM XX DISC BRAKE	SRAM XX GXP CRANKSET	SRAM XX BB30 CRANKSET	SRAM XX CASSETTE	SRAM XX FRONT DERAILLEUR
SRAM XX REAR DERAILLEUR	SRAM XX TRIGGER SHIFTERS	SRAM XX 38.2MM CLAMP-ON FRONT DERAILLEUR